Bottega Veneta Body Heat

Stefania D’Alessandro/Getty ImagesModels displayed the Bottega Veneta Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 collection at Milan Womenswear Fashion Week on Saturday.

MILAN — The 36 looks that Tomas Maier showed on Saturday at Bottega Veneta seemed to fly past, and then a burst of applause.

He had a lot to say, but he said it concisely, with spare, elegant dresses and coats in black, cobalt or maroon wool.

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The fabrics had a matte, compacted look, but it was the fit and proportion that really stood out. The clothes had a normal sense of grace.

Like Raf Simons at Jil Sander, Mr. Maier knows how to elevate knitwear, pairing a ribbed black cashmere sweater with cropped trousers for a surprisingly polished look that was still relaxed. This exceptional show included burnt velvet dresses in a three-dimensional blur of colors, dresses and skirts with soft peplums, and velvet-paneled evening dresses.